Tegwen to Tasmania Summer 2010-11 Completed

Tegwen is now safely back at her marina berth in Batemans Bay having completed the "Tegwen to Tasmania" cruise.  She now awaits a complete wash down, scrub and clean after three and a half months away but this will have to wait a few days while the skipper's life returns to "normalcy".

I would like to thank Russ Shalders, Mark Smith, Mark Webb, Graham Giles, Steve Knight and Bruce Hall who crewed with me on this cruise and my wife Christine for her support and understanding.  This cruise would not have been possible without them.

Some additional cruise details and photos may be added over time.

Tegwen to Tasmania - Eden to Batemans Bay

Tegwen left the Eden wharf just after 6:30 this morning. Despite the forecasts of 20 - 30 knots during the morning they did not eventuate. We had reasonable winds, with the direction swinging as forecast and lessening at the end of the day but not scary stuff. The swell helped us along and all in all it was a quick trip of 15 hours and a relaxing way to wind up the journey.

We are now waiting off Square Head for the the morning tide when Tegwen be taken across the Batemans Bay Bar and finally to her home berth and the completion of her journey to Tasmania.

Tegwen to Tasmania - Lady Barron to Eden

Tegwen left Lady Barron wharf at 7:00am Sunday 13th March, just before the turn of the tide, to negotiate the tricky channels of Adelaide Bay and the eastern Franklin Sound channels.  As expected, there were light winds against us once out in open waters and this remained so for most of the day.  Having reached a point abeam of the tip of Flinders Island still motoring into light winds, we were wondering what had happened to the predicted south westerly we were hoping would send us across Bass Strait proper. 

Then at 7:55pm, five minutes before the BOM Forecast Wind chart showed strong SW winds in the area, they arrived with a bang and the sleigh ride began!  For the rest of the night we had winds averaging around 27 knots with a 1 metre SE swell and SW seas of 1 to 2 metres on top.  It was fairly dark and the sensation of speed was tremendous with the wake phosphorescing and Tegwen twitching in the confused combination of sea and swell.  As we only had the two of us on board, we didn't put the main up, just the reefed genoa with the motor assisting.  Tegwen held 6 to 7 knots all through the night until mid morning Monday, the wind had eased to 20 knots and then in the afternoon down to 12 and later even less. 

Somewhere around Gabo Island the rain showers started to come across and we didn't shake them off until the entrance to Twofold Bay and our chosen anchorage in East Boyd Bay, where we found five other yachts.  We were safely at anchor by 11:00pm having enjoyed a speedy trip with plenty of excitement but none of the terrors that Bass Strait can dish out.

Tegwen made the crossing from Lady Barron to Eden in 40 hours, which was significantly quicker than originally planned.  The maximum wind speed was 31.5 knots, Tegwen averaged 5.7 knots over 168 nautical miles of the crossing and 5.4 knots over the full 216 nautical miles.

Tegwen to Tasmania - Lady Barron Leisure

Come Friday morning, as hoped, some boats left the wharf and we were able to secure a good berth for Tegwen. Spoke to the Tasports officer and he was happy with where we were for the expected duration, so need to worry about having to move. The weather forecasts look good for a Sunday morning departure so we have a couple of days to occupy ourselves at Lady Barron.

Friday was well spent securing Tegwen at the wharf, fetching fuel, some supplies and a coffee from Max's store and then availing ourselves of the shower and washing machine available at the Tavern, all the while dodging sporadic rain. Once again the locals offered us a lift back with the full jerry cans which saved us some effort.

Saturday saw us back at Max's watching the passing parade of people seeking their weekend newspaper fix. The early morning mist and rain had kept the airport closed for some time and the delivery was delayed. People were getting anxious as they went through newsprint withdrawal. We discovered while waiting there that we had missed the markets at Whitemark, the capital of Flinders Island, held earlier that morning. We had wondered about hitching up that way for a ,look around to fill in the day. After asking the newspaper delivery man who had finally arrived with the newspapers if he was going up that way, he replied no, the other van had gone up there. However, he had an old car he was happy to lend us which he did! The Tasmanian hospitality never ceases to amaze! So it was a leisurely drive up to Whitemark, fortunately getting to the bakery just before it closed and similarly to the general store and newsagency. Whitemark, unfortunately, has seen better days but we did get some feel for the nature of the landscape along the way. An enjoyable afternoon's amble after all.

We prepared Tegwen for the early morning departure for Eden and then endeavoured to sleep, while the ferry from Bridport arrived to unload gravel and then load logs for a lot of the night. The wharf is convenient but has its down side too.

Eddystone Point to Lady Barron

A rolly night at Eddystone Point with a NE sea and a SE wind. Not that there was much to the night anyway, as we had a 1:50am departure to ensure we were favoured by the strong tidal currents approaching Lady Barron. We had a quick trip, mostly under sail until the late morning winds eased prior to the predicted midday build up, arriving at Lady Barron before 1:00pm.

As we approached Flinders Island the rain started and was with us all the way in unfortunately. The wharf at Lady Barron was full so we picked up an available mooring, at least for a while. If one of the fishing boats leaves we will endeavour to come along side - neither of us wants to play dinghies in the rain. It was then time to get out of all our wet weather gear and enjoy a hot lunch followed by a catch up of last night's sleep.

Lady Barron will be our stepping off point across Bass Strait for Eden.  Accordingly we could be here one or more days awaiting an appropriate weather window . . . .

Long Point to Eddystone Point

After a very restful night at Long Point we set off by 6:30am for Eddystone Point. It turned out to be a lovely day with only slight seas and plenty of sunshine. We sailed a large part of the day only needing the motor to assist towards the end when the winds had dropped off to 8 knots or below. We shared the anchorage overnight with four fishing boats.

Wineglass Bay to Long Point

We left Wineglass Bay by 7:00am in an effort to get some distance behind us before the seas rose further with the increasing breeze.  The trip up to Bicheno went well and the seas were certainly much kindlier than those we had faced two days ago.

The Gulch at Bicheno was relatively calm although the usual current was flowing through. Tegwen had the entire wharf to herself which made tying up easier. Francois, a retired Frenchman who was fishing at the wharf offered us a lift to the service station as well as subsequently back to town to get lunch.  Beats walking with full jerry cans!  This is the second time that the Bicheno locals have been exceedingly helpful.

Had lunch at the Bicheno Bakery, of course, and got some fresh food items at the IGA then walked back to the Gulch.  Because of the swell in the Gulch, Bicheno can be a very difficult place to stop at but Tegwen has now twice been looked upon favourably.

The final leg for the day to Long Point took under two hours and the seas settled the closer we got.  The Long Point anchorage is very sheltered at the moment and a lovely spot.  The sunset was very dramatic with a myriad of strong cloud shapes painted in strong sun colours and dark greys.  We were joined by another yacht just as this display commenced.  A most relaxing and satisfactory way to end the day.

Looking forward to a restful night's sleep before heading off for Eddystone Point.  The forecast looks much better and we hope to be able to sail most of the way tomorrow rather than having to motor to get there in a timely manner.  The need to proceed is predicated on the weather forecasts for Bass Strait in a few days time.  We are looking for favourable winds as Tegwen hasn't the fuel range to motor across Bass Strait and in any case, sailing is of course the preferred method of propulsion..

Schouten Passage to Wineglass Bay

After a good night at Bryan's Corner, we moved around to Wineglass Bay to enjoy the surrounds there and reduce the next day's travel time. There were some seas on the nose, as usual, but not nearly as bad as we faced getting to Bryan's Corner and we managed to average 4.8 knots over the 13 nautical miles. We came across some seals appearing to sleep until Tegwen approached and saw the usual array of sea birds.

Once at Wineglass Bay we got out the dinghy and went ashore to enjoy the beach. We ran into Bryan and Rowena from Schools Out on the beach and they invited us over for sundowners later which we certainly enjoyed. Tegwen first met Schools out in Eden and subsequently in Lady Barron, Flinders Island back in December.

Unlike the last time here, there were just the two yachts anchored for the night and no trawlers. The northerly wind brought a short sea causing quite a bit of pitching overnight so once again, Wineglass Bay as lovely as it is, wasn't as restful as we had hoped.

Triabunna to Schouten Passage

A gentle start to the day visiting the Triabunna Bakehouse, the service station and the supermarket and then a delightful shower at the Visitor Centre. We left Triabunna with the sun behind us, which certainly helps to ascertain the limits of the incredibly narrow and in places tortuous channel, setting sail abeam the woodchip loader.

Once out in Great Oyster Bay the wind proved to be strengthening and short seas were developing. After trying to sail for around two hours, the wind and sea state had worsened to make progress extremely uncomfortable and slow. Back to motor sailing and ultimately to straight motoring as the destination was of course, directly into the wind. The nominally six hour trip ended up taking around eight hours with the seas often bringing Tegwen almost to what seemed like a halt. The bad conditions all disappeared as we approached the shelter of Bryan's Corner at the western end of Schouten Passage.

The anchor went down just on sunset and once Tegwen was tidied, Bruce cooked a great barbecue pork and rice dish for dinner. There are just three other boats nearby, such a contrast to mid January!

Port Arthur to Triabunna

We spent Friday at anchor, reading and chatting most of the day, to let the strong winds and larger swells abate. The weather cycled around all day from sunny to howling wind to rain to hail and back to sunny again. Late afternoon we had a visitor, John from the yacht Esoterica anchored nearby. After some good conversation and a cup of tea, we relocated to Esoterica to meet Kerrin, John's wife, who had been patiently waiting for us all to arrive for drinks! One thing led to another and we ended up having a very nice dinner on their large cruising yacht with much talking late into the night.

Saturday morning we dragged ourselves out of bed to face quite a chilly morning for the start of a long days sailing. As we headed out of the Port Arthur area and proceeded to round Tasman Island, the swell came up with a bit of a sea on top but nothing like conditions we faced on arrival two days prior. Once around Tasman Island we went further out where it all settled down very nicely and we were able to sail for most of the day as opposed to motoring, as has been required so often before, to reach Triabunna some twelve hours later. It was a most pleasant days sailing with the wind varying at times from a reach to a run, a little cool when the sun hid behind clouds but nevertheless most enjoyable. One of the best day's sailing on the trip to date.

Triabunna harbour was fairly full upon arrival but Stan the Harbour Master approved the berth we had commandeered so all was well. A near disaster struck as we reached the pub as the meals service finishes at 7:30pm, the exact time of our arrival. However, the smiling proprietor reassured us it wasn't too late to order if we were quick to make up our minds - a disaster averted. Both of us ordered steaks but struggled to eat them all as they were so huge! Tomorrow we shall top up the water and fuel then visit the Triabunna Bakery previously established as worth the visit, before setting off for Bryan's Corner.

Tegwen's Return Commences - Hobart to Port Arthur

Having motored up from Kettering and provisioning with fuel, water and food on Wednesday, the homeward leg of Tegwen's cruise to and around Tasmania started today from the Royal Yacht Club of Tasmania. With a light dusting of snow and a rainbow showing on Mt Wellington, Bruce Hall and Stephen set off just after 9:00am. Once into the Derwent Estuary, the westerly wind started picking up and we set the genoa and turned off the motor. The forecast for the day ahead involved significant and increasing wind along with a decent swell, so just the more easily managed sail was deployed. We had considerable speed even so and managed to average 6.2 knots for the whole day's sailing.

As we crossed Storm Bay the conditions became more boisterous and the genoa was partially furled with little effect on speed. Approaching the entrance to Port Arthur the swell eased off, the winds subdued a little and the sun cast its light on the cliffs leading to Tasman Island - a magnificant sight. We arrived off the Port Arthur settlement with blue sky and some clouds and anchored Tegwen in a very sheltered spot to sit out the strong weather forecast for tomorrow.

Tegwen to Tasmania - Circumnavigation Completed

Although the third leg of the Tegwen to Tasmania cruise officially started when the crew for the second leg joined in Hobart, Tegwen actually started from Kettering. So her arrival back in Kettering completed Tegwen's circumnavigation of Tasmania covering 906 nautical miles over 32 days.

Tegwen to Tasmania - Third Leg Achieved

Tegwen logged 504 nautical miles from Stanley to Kettering over 18 days now sits in Kettering enjoying the Oyster Cove Marina once again until the end of the month when the crew arrives for the fourth and final leg back across Bass Strait to Batemans Bay.

Tegwen to Tasmania - Recherche Bay to Kettering

The plan was to sail to Southport and anchor in Deep Hole with a view to seeing the Ida Bay Railway in operation, then on to Dover and the reputed Swiss Bakery, before finishing Tegwen's Tasmanian circumnavigation in Kettering.

However, the forecast was somewhat daunting with even worse to come the day after next. The next two proposed anchorages were either more exposed or not as good a holding as we had at Coalbins, so the decision was taken to have a reading day. Many of the other yachts around us decided the same and stayed in the area.
---
Friday saw us off by 8:00am heading straight to Kettering. Coalbins was very sheltered with only a light breeze but once out in the Bay proper the wind increased and as often has happened on this circumnavigation it was on the nose so motoring was the order of the day. A couple of other yachts heading north were also seen to be motoring. The wind increased as we passed Southport, Dover and the Huon River entrances but always on the nose. Once in the d'Entrecasteaux Channel itself the wind picked up further but still not as strong as predicted.
At last, with just a couple of miles to go, the course with respect to the wind enabled us to hoist sail and enjoy it.

And then Tegwen was at Kettering - the starting point for her Tasmanian circumnavigation.

Mark Smith, who crewed from Stanley to Kettering (and previously from Batemans Bay to Hobart), took advantage of our Friday arrival to return home early and enjoy the weekend with his much missed family.

Tegwen to Tasmania - Port Davey to Recherche Bay

We were up so early that there wasn't enough light to see by!  After about half an hour going down the coast towards South West Cape, we ran into sea fog that reduced visibility to 100 metres at times.  An hour and a half later it slowly started to lift and the mountains and islands we had so much looked forward to seeing started to emerge from the mist.  With a 72 nautical miles day in front of us and an unfamiliar anchorage awaiting us at Rechereche Bay, we motor sailed all the way to ensure we got in while there was still some light.  The wind varied in strength starting at 5 knots but building to over 20 at one stage, although the direction was often unfavourable for us. There was a 2m SW swell assisting us for most of the day, enabling an average for the day of 5.2 knots.  Having been prepared for the potential terrors of the South Coast, the day's journey was remarkably easy and uneventfull, other than the sea fog.  The rest of the day was sunny with some cloud about and great visibility of the coast.

Coming into the Coalbins anchorage in Recherche Bay, we were surprised to see a large number of other yachts, trawlers and motor launches already there.  We were sharing the anchorage with twelve other boats, all of whom have obviously been to the just finished Wooden Boat Festival in Hobart.  Tegwen was the only non wooden boat there!  This is the first time in the whole trip we have been in so much company at an anchorage. 

We enjoyed a hot meal on deck around sunset and as the ensuing twilight darkened, there was a fairyland of anchor lights bobbing around us.

Tegwen to Tasmania - Bathurst Harbour Happenings

Saturday saw a gentle start admiring the scenery around us and wondering if the rain and cloud would lift.  We experienced all sorts of weather as the morning passed by.  Encouraged by the sun, we got out the dinghy only to have it rain again.  Finally around midday we set off to explore and possibly climb Balmoral Hill for the view.  However, once we put our nose out past Ila Bay in the dinghy, we were confronted with a short sharp chop - it was quite windy and against the tide.  With the wind forecast to rise mightily in the afternoon we thought better of it. 

We had noticed a sole bushwalker struggling to launch a dinghy from Joan Point and deciding we could help, sidled the dinghy across the chop to the spot to find a young Czechoslovakian woman who had already completed the South Coast Track and was heading for Scott's Peak.  Mark hopped out and the two of them were able to slide the dinghy down the slipway pole across the rocks to the water successfully. We made our way across to Farell Point and Mark helped stow the dinghy on its rack - this time the slipway had two poles so at least the dinghy didn't have to be balanced as well as pushed.  Being sheltered, we decided to explore the top end of Ila Bay, all the while trying to work out how to get ashore and climb towards Mt Rugby (the pilot book says its tougher than it appears and not to bother). We halted near the end of the bay too look at three black swans who after a while decided to leave us. We ate some lunch as we drifted back to Tegwen.  A quiet afternoon ensued with rain coming through often.
---
On Sunday, with the weather looking a little better rain wise, although still some about, we motored around to Claytons Corner.  Finding the middle of the deeper part shown on the charts took a while but we were finally satisfied with our anchorage.  The dinghy was fetched from the locker and was soon awaiting our pleasure at Tegwen's stern.

After a hot lunch we went ashore at the jetty, checked out the former retired fishermans house, now maintained by National Parks and Wildlife, then went up the well formed and occasionally duck boarded Mt Beattie track. For the most part this was winding through the extensive rain forest that has developed in the sheltered folds of the hills until suddenly we broke out on the ridge top with extensive views from Mt Rugby to Bathurst Harbour to Melaleuca backed by New Harbour Range and Claytons Corner and Tegwen below us. After considerable time admiring the views, with the portent of another show approaching we descended the track.  On the way back we saw several brightly coloured fungi growing that had alluded us on the way up. The rain though threatened held off. 

The onset of dusk was delightful with the sun washing over the hills and islands around us in a moving tapestry of light.  That night we saw some stars amongst the clouds, the first for several nights - a good portent for the morrow.
---
We arose Monday  to a clear blue sky with just a streak of mist on the side of one or two of the hills. Mid morning we headed off in the dinghy to explore Melaleuca Inlet and Creek.  The views of Mt Rugby back down the Inlet were quite stunning with the morning light playing upon the structure of the mountain.  The channel in a couple of the broader reaches is very narrow and marked out with sticks which must be followed very closely to avoid weed, mud or rocks. 

Melaleuca itself has had a bit of a going over since the early 1980's when the skipper was last here.  The airstrip now has marker cones and a waiting shed.  The bushwalkers huts are deluxe compared to what used to be here and the toilets to die for.  There is also a bird watching hide available to all but used primarily to monitor the few surviving orange bellied parrots that spend their summers breeding in this area before migrating to King Island, the Victorian Coast and the Koorong for winter.  We didn't see any parrots but did observe some Beautiful Firetails which had striking markings around the eyes and an almost scarlet tail.

Back down Melaleuca Inlet to Tegwen, the tide almost at its lowest point by now as we found out at one point when looking at the surroundings rather than where we were going.  After a nice lunch the afternoon was spent reading in the solitude of the anchorage. Dusk and the ensuing long twilight were most enjoyable, the breeze having dropped away to almost nothing and the only sounds the lapping of the water on Tegwen and the bird calls from the surrounding shores. We watched as some sea mist came over New Harbour Range to the south and settled onto drifts on its slopes before settling down to become an evening mist over the plain before it.  The three quarter full moon was exceptionally bright in the clear air and the multitudinous stars struggled to make themselves visible against it.
---
Hopeful of an early start to Tuesday with a full days program in front of us, we were stymied by last nights evening mist still hanging around giving insufficient visibility to strike out across Bathurst Harbour.  There was only a suggestion of a SW breeze and mill pond conditions. 

Finally the sun burnt off the mist and we were on our way to Old River.  We snuck in as close as we dared but Old River shallowed out very quickly, the channel was not obvious and the proliferation of snags across the river mouth convinced us to anchor a little further out and take the dinghy from there.  We went up stream almost to the first set of rapids but started hitting submerged, thought to be wooden, objects.  The return trip being with the current was significantly quicker.  The downside was that the wind had sprung up and we were getting some spray into the dinghy.  Near the river mouth we managed to lose the channel and it took quite a bit of fluffing around to gain deep water again.  Once across the river entrance, there was a short chop to be faced and we inevitably got a bit wet as we made our way back to Tegwen.

After lunch we set off back across Bathurst Harbour, into the Channel and out to Port Davey to head for Spain Bay - our stepping off point for the trip across the bottom of Tasmania.  Going down Bathurst Channel, the vista all around us was so different to when we first arrived from Strahan, with low clouds and rain showers all about. The sky was a deep blue, the sun resplendant  and backgrounding the more distant mountains were the odd fluffy white clouds.

We arrived at Spain Bay late in the afternoon having passed some dramatic rock formations in the islands outside the Bathurst Channel entrance and south from there.  Spain Bay is a pretty little bay that seems to be well protected, with kust a little swell coming in.  In preparation for the big push tomorrow, the dinghy was packed away, some more two stroke fuel made up and Tegwen's fuel tank filled back up from jerry cans.  Finally it was time for dinner which we enjoyed on deck taking in the surroundings in the changing light of sunset.

Having had Bathurst Channel and Harbour to ourselves with the one exception of a large motor launch, we encountered five yachts all arriving today.  It would appear they have all scampered off from Hobart at the finish of the Wooden Boat Festival held over last weekend. Time to leave.

Tegwen to Tasmania - Strahan to Bathurst Harbour

Spent the morning readying ourselves and Tegwen for departure for Port Davey and Bathurst Harbour and left Strahan harbour around 2:00 pm. It was heavily overcast, drizzling and the winds were very light from the SW.

By 4:30 pm Tegwen had cleared Macquarie Breakwater and the wind was up to 13.5 knots from the N. We waited until abreast Cape Sorell before hoisting sail and started to motor sail as the wind had dropped to 9 knots. By 8:15 pm the wind had died away to next to nothing and the sea was almost glassy with a low underlying swell. Then around 10:50 pm the motor was off and Tegwen was sailing at 5.5 knots. Later through the night there was more rain with the wind going more W and easing. By 1:50 am it was back to motoring. Very frustrating wind wise but the Tasmanian West Coast is known for its extremes and this was preferable to its wild and woolly reputation.

The rain cleared when just off Port Davey and Tegwen approached it with low clouds and mist hanging around the mountains but clearing from behind. We anchored in Casilda Cove at 10:45 and caught up with some of the previous night's sleep. Mid afternoon we up anchored and moved further down the channel to Ila Bay where we felt the anchoring was more manageable in the forecast strong winds to come.

Tegwen to Tasmania - Macquarie Harbour et al

Saturday 5th February was spent mooching about the town checking out some of the lovely timberand timber items for sale and talking with the locals. One in particular was the skipper of Storm Breaker, a charter yacht based in Strahan, who shared his local knowledge with us on our anticipated meanderings around Macquarie Harbour and the Gordon River.

An easy start to Sunday, after taking on diesel we left Strahan Harbour around 11:00 am. There were some clouds amongst the blue sky and winds were from the SW at 12 knots. Once out into the broader Macquarie Harbour, we put up sail and proceeded down to Kelly Basin. The wind was surprisingly variable in both strength and direction requiring tacking several times for the first time on the trip. The variability confused the autopilot somewhat and we ended up at the helm most of the way.

By 4:15 pm we had cruised around Kelly Basin and anchored in the magnificently protected spot behind St Leger Point. Although experiencing showers at times, it was a good trip down the harbour and Kelly Basin looked pretty as the sun came out at times. We enjoyed a serenely quiet night with no insects to disturb our slumbers despite dire warnings from locals.

With it being quite overcast and showers coming through, we got off to another slow start on Monday before exploring Kelly Basin. Finally the weather cleared for a while and off we went in the dinghy. First to East Pillinger where some duckboarding and interpretive signs have been set up by National Parks and Wildlife. There were some brick kilns and boilers to be seen as well as the remains of a railway carriage in a very sorry state. We walked along the Bird River track a little way as well. Then it was back into the dinghy and across to the small wharf near "Raindeer Lodge", an old shack adjacent to West Pillinger. We looked around there a little but decided not to trek over to the town site itself, given the amount of regrowth that has reclaimed the whole area.

After a hot lunch, we set off at 12:45 for the Gordon River. The wind as is becoming normal was dead ahead and gusting over 20 knots at times. We saw one of the tourist boats enter the River and Tegwen entered around 30 minutes later. The river was very subdued both current and wind wise and this enabled the evening's casserole to be started early and to cook slowly as we progressed upstream. We anchored near Heritage Landing and dinghied over to "do the walk" through the rainforest there. After this interlude, we glided further up the Gordon until we stopped for the night in the stretch of river a lttle past Horseshoe Bend.

Tuesday morning started with cloud cover and some morning mist rising along the banks around us like wisps of smoke from camp fires. The river was very still with everything reflected perfectly in it. We headed further up river around 9:00 am. Subsequently, having slipped around Butlers Island that has featured so often in calendars, we were hugging the shore through a section of the river which is shallow in the middle, just before Warners Landing, when a low flying float plane appeared out of nowhere as he climbed slowly and wound his way down the river valley. They say you get little advance warning of the appearance of these float planes and it was certainly the case for us. No panic though as we were well over to the side of the river. Warners Landing was upon us and we cruised slowly past the sight of so much commotion during the Franklin Dam protests to tie up at the wharf for Sir John Falls. The falls were very picturesque and even more so when the sun came out highlighting the surrounding rain forest.

After a quiet lunch, we headed off down river again, still with little breeze but now with the current of the Gordon assisting us. Near the mouth of the Gordon, as the wind gained strength and chilled us somewhat, we passed Storm Breaker the large charter yacht based in Strahan. Trevor the skipper, who had lent us an out of print archaeological study on the King River and Kelly Basin to enhance our visit, was on his way up river to pick up a party of rafters coming down. Trevor also offered us use of his mooring at Sarah Island which we gratefully accepted.

Out of the Gordon and straight for Sarah Island. We were tied up on Storm Breaker's mooring there by 5:15 pm. Into the dinghy and off to Sarah Island which we had all to ourselves. Its been made very easy to visit and get around the island but with all the regrowth and pleasant paths, it is hard to imagine the barren, harsh and cruel place it must have been when in use as a penal colony. Tegwen looked a picture from Sarah Island, backed as she was by Mt Sorell, Farm Cove and the entrance to Kelly Basin with sun gleaming off her white hull.

The wind had dropped off overnight. We saw one of the large tourist vessels proceeding towards the Gordon entrance, then Storm Breaker returning to Strahan after the night up river and were preparing to leave ourselves when the morning took a turn for the worse. The skipper did the unthinkable and managed to block the toilet plumbing. Some two hours later having discovered lots about the toilet system pump, hoses and valves but neither able to remove the hose nor internally reach what seems the most likely spot for the blockage with the implements we had on board, we set off for Strahan formulating what must by now be plan H. The wind was 2 knots from the S so it was motoring time again. One of the things you appreciate heading back up Macquarie Harbour is the enormity of it. Although the surrounding land at the north western end of the harbour is relatively low, it completely disappears when you are down the south eastern end as a result of the curvature of the earth. What you see is water all the way to the horizon with a gradually vanishing shore either side.

Back into Strahan in the early afternoon, we topped up the fuel then tied up again against the trawler Elizabeth on the town wharf. Time to regroup, take on supplies and sort out the plumbing . . .

After a nice grilled snapper and salad at one of the Strahan cafés we wondered back to the boat to face the plumbing. In the end plan H worked and was deceptively simple. For all the angst we retrieved surprisingly little from the hose but it mattered not, it now all works. Took a while to clean up and wash down various places with chlorine but all is now fine, if somewhat clinical smelling. If there is a next time we will try plan H first.

Finished the day with route planning for the next leg to Port Davey. We anticipate a mid-day departure and an overnight sail. Thew weather looks to be very mild and we will probably have to motor sail most of the way.

Tegwen to Tasmania - Three Hummock Is to Strahan

With a day and a night in the offing Tegwen left the sheltered bay at the top of Three Hummock Island at 6:30 am Thursday with a SW wind of 14 knots. Given the experiences off Stanley we motored until the waters between Three Hummock and Hunter Islands opened up so we could assess its full force before hoisting sail.

We then sailed almost to Albatross Island but on tacking found we couldn't hold a fair course so it was initially back to motor sailing. It quickly became clear we would have to just motor if we were to utilise our intended weather window for entry into Macquarie Harbour.

As Tegwen proceeded around the western shore of Hunter Island it seemed with every heading change the wind followed her around - very frustrating. Finally off West Point we were able to carry sail again although we needed the motor as well to achieve a reasonable speed. As evening ensued the winds dropped off to 6 to 8 knots and increasingly variable in direction. By early morning the wind had swung to the NE for a period but with little strenght. By 7:00am it was back to a S - SW wind of around 6 knots and we were 16 nautical miles from the Macquarie Harbour breakwater.

Approaching Macquarie Harbour the seas were all but smooth and the swell was gentle. For all its fearsome reputation we ran down the breakwater and through Hells Gates in very benign conditions. Having read the relevant guides and poured over the charts, we had each twist and turn required to get into the broader expanse of Macquarie Harbour well documented and followed them easily. A trawler followed us in from the breakwater all the way to Strahan itself and it was reassuring to see it pretty well taking the same course we had.

By 12 noon Friday we had tied up safely at the Strahan town wharf and quickly had the facilities sussed out and power connected. It was then a stroll around town and a visit to the bakery for curried scallop pies for lunch. The afternoon was occupied with more mundane persuits - taking a shower then a trip to the laundromat around the point in West Strahan. We finished the day with fish and chips in the park overlooking the wharf area.

Tegwen to Tasmania - Stanley to Three Hummock Is

At the start of Tuesday 1st February, the skipper's birthday, we expected to farewell Graham and then spend the day tucked up in Stanley Harbour given the forecast. Then the strong wind warning was cancelled and the revised forecast looked manageable, so we decided around lunch time to leave for Three Hummock Island. This was to be a staging point for the long leg to Macquarie Harbour.

As we came out of the shelter of The Nut, the winds went up to 20 knots and the seas built somewhat. The required course was a reach across the seas which was difficult to hold. If Tegwen's stern was picked up by a wave, the sail area was then presented beam on to the wind causing more rounding up and extreme rolling. It was not long before the wind had come up to 35 knots sustained and gusting over 40! With two reefs in the main and the genoa partially furled it was still very hard to hold Tegwen on the intended course across the face of the seas.

Having expected a leisurely 10 to 20 knots we started out without all our wet weather gear on and by the time we donned it we were soaked through anyway. The thought of trying to put the third reef in the main in the conditions at the time with only two on board was a little daunting as was the thought of a further five hours sailing when soaked to the bone. We turned around and made our way back to the shelter of Stanley Harbour once again for a total round trip of 9.8 nautical miles.

The only consolation was a dinner at the Stanley pub with the captain and crew of the trawler we had been rafted up to for the last few days. The harbour had a bit of movement in it all night and Tegwen required some additional springs after the wind changed during the night.

Wednesday's dawn saw overcast conditions with drizzle and quite a breeze - a sense of deja vu overwhelmed us and it was difficult to get motivated to try and leave again. Mark and I spent quite a bit of time going over the next two legs and sussing out the likely weather. It was pretty obvious that we needed to try and enter Macquarie Harbour no later than Friday morning if we weren't to spend a further several days waiting for another weather window.

After walking to the end of the harbour and looking out at the sea conditions, we decided to have another go at sailing for Three Hummock Island. As it turned out this was the correct decision. Once clear of The Nut, the drizzle disappeared and at times the sun came out. The seas were only slight and there was a light breeze. We motored until well clear of Stanley to avoid the influence of The Nut and then were able to set sail and stop the motor. Not a great speed but at least we were sailing. Unfortunately the breeze gradually died over time and we forced once again to motor sail and ultimately just motor.

Despite the motoring we had a good trip and on looking back after a few miles had been covered, it became obvious how much the Harbour weather was dominated by the micro climate surrounding The Nut.

Having started late we used the twilight to maximum advantage and were finally at anchor well after sunset in a rolly but quiet bay along the northern coast of Three Hummock Island. Quiet that is, apart from the cries of what sounds like little penguins esconced amongst the cliffs around the bay.

Tegwen to Tasmania - Stanley Strolling

With public transport into and out of Stanley to wider parts confined to weekdays, Graham and Stephen had some days to tidy Tegwen and explore Stanley. When we strolled over to the beach to the north of The Nut, it was a picture postcard of an Australian beach scene and King's Park behind it a credit to the council.  The main business street has some interesting buildings in it and we spoke with lots of friendly people. However, it has become a pastiche of architectural styles with an almost purely tourist focus by the local merchants. Smithton is the nearest town with any real supplies or services.

Mark Smith who had sailed on the first stage down to Hobart arrived on the Monday late afternoon bus to rejoin Tegwen for the trip down the West Coast. All three of us enjoyed a light meal at the new café at the end of the wharf area, which had the advantage of not being far to go in the light rain we were experiencing. Early Tuesday, Graham was homeward bound on the early morning bus out of Stanley.

Tegwen to Tasmania - Second Leg Achieved

We logged 333 nautical miles from Hobart to Stanley over 11 days. Tegwen now sits in Stanley Harbour rafted up to a fishing boat awaiting a crew changeover on Tuesday 1st of February.

Tegwen to Tasmania - Devonport to Stanley

Up at the crack of dawn for a long day's trip and to get what sailing we could with the anticipated weather. After leaving the harbour entrance we crossed the Spirit of Tasmania and a freighter coming into Devonport. Not long after we set course for Rocky Cape as the first significant waypoint. Motor sailing was the order of the day with a light but helpful breeze. However, as we came closer to Rocky Cape the wind swung more to straight on the nose and increased in speed until abeam the Cape we had to take in the sail and just motor. Around the same time the seas increased with a particular short pattern of threes that at times that almost stopped Tegwen in her tracks. Increased engine speed helped ameliorate this, as did the change of course after Rocky Cape towards Stanley but it was not comfortable progress. Closing in on "The Nut" the seas abated but the wind held up and was still on the nose.

12 hours after leaving Devonport we were safely into Stanley Harbour around 6:00pm. One of the fisherman, Matthew, gestured for us to raft up alongside his boat. An offer which we gratefully accepted. The tides here range over 3.5 metres and being able to securely raft up against a bigger boat makes for a far more secure berth. His boat is undergoing a gearbox repair and so it is unlikely Tegwen will have to be moved while in Stanley. After a long chat with Matthew, we walked up to the Stanley Hotel for an evening meal on the deck at their bistro and enjoyed looking at some of the lit up older buildings on the way back to Tegwen.

Tegwen to Tasmania - Beauty Point to Devonport

We took on fuel at the Dalrymple YC then bid our farewells to Steve who needed to return home to his family. He has been congenial company, a good sailor and the best helmsman of the three of us as well. It was sad to leave him at the dock as we sailed off but Tegwen is likely to see him again on another cruise. From a helming perspective we had restored the autopilot to life just in the nick of time and it was successfully put to use later in the day.

Heading out down the sinuous channel in the Tamar, we had a 3 knot boost from the outgoing tide and passed the occasional seal lounging around in the fairway. With the wind on the nose it was another day of motor sailing until at last, after a predicted wind shift, we were able to sail the last 14 miles to Devonport and our home for the night at the Mersey YC. The autopilot was put to good use both under power and sail and we were pleased to have it operational.

We approached the Mersey YC with a classic "ferry glide" against the wind and incoming tide. With the Yanmar at idle speed Tegwen had a slight forward movement, allowing a very controlled sidling up to the pontoon. It was a very satisfying piece of boat handling.

A visit to the nearby award winning bakery followed by a bus trip into Devonport city enabled us to have a coffee, stretch our legs and pick up some essential goodies. Dinner was had at the yacht club with their congenial members, topped off by watching the turning and departure of the Spirit of Tasmania car ferry from the club deck.

Tegwen to Tasmania - Beauty Point Perambulations

A land based day today with time spent at the laundromat before and after a slow breakfast, talking to some locals while we waited for our clothes to dry and then finally off to explore. We walked around to Seahorse World and did the tour of this commercial seahorse display and breeding centre. Then off to the Beauty Point shopping precinct notable for its small size.

Alas Beauty Point doesn't run to a bakery as such but we did manage a lunch at the local cafe overlooking the Tamar, took on some more stores at the supermarket and then wound our way back to the boat. Walked around to the Dalrymple YC to arrange a fuel top up for the next morning and had a bit of a chin wag with a local who is converting a trawler for leisure use.

Late in the day, the autopilot was tackled once again. Previously rebuilt but assembled with a grease that turned out to be too stiff for the delicate little gears of the drive mechanism, the drive had to be stripped down completely to enable the gearbox to be cleaned of all traces of the stiff grease and reassembled with just a smattering of a more appropriate lubricant.
It all appeared to work this time but the test will be the morrow's sailing.

Tegwen to Tasmania - Bridport to Beauty Point

Leaving Bridport around 8:15 am with a clear sky and a SW wind of only 5 knots. Once on course we were obliged to motor directly into the then westerly wind until once past 10th Island we were able to enjoy a great sail the rest of the way to the Tamar River entrance.

The channel up the Tamar estuary is somewhat serpentine with swirls in mid channel and the shore scattered with leads for each small section of the route. Needless to say we met a ship coming out right at a sharp bend but managed to keep out if his way as he turned.

We found our home for the next two nights at the Tamar Yacht Club, adjacent to the Australian Maritime College. The yacht club's relatively new floating marina had been recently devastated by a particular wind and wave combination and space was at a premium but they fitted us in. Dinner that night was had at a restaurant some way up the road that Graham's smart phone had revealed to us.

Arriving in the Tamar was another milestone on Tegwen's Tasmanian journey. What could have been a difficult and tedious bit of sailing around the north eastern corner of Tasmania had been achieved all by day sailing with the only inconvenience being the unexpectedly early wind change when anchored in Fosters Inlet.

Tegwen to Tasmania - Tomahawk Head to Bridport

Blearily we departed Tomahawk Head around 8:30 am with overcast skies and a W wind of around 12 knots. We motored around the top of Waterhouse Island then sailed from there. The wind was up to 15 knots by then, subsequently increasing to 20 from the west and gusting 23 as we closed on Bridport.

By 1:30 pm Tegwen was safe at anchor near the old jetty at the northern end of Bridport, known as Waterhouse Beach. Rather than be couped up on the boat on what had turned into a delightful sunny afternoon, we dragged out the inflatable dinghy and were soon on our way to the shore. A pleasant walk to the other end of Bridport revealed the very narrow entrance into the fast flowing creek/river most unsuitable for a yacht to enter and more importantly a nice bakery in which to enjoy time over a coffee.

Tegwen to Tasmania - Foster Inlet to Tomahawk Head

We had anticipated a gentle start to the day, intending to sail for two hours to Tomahawk Point before the predicted westerly change came in mid morning. After a somewhat rolly night, we actually found ourselves called to arms at 4:55am when one of the crew noticed the wind had gone around to the west and was already at 17 knots and rising quickly.

The wind change put us considerably closer to shore in a relatively shallow anchorage so immediate action was taken. Being well before sunrise and heavily overcast it was quite dark. The route for the days run had been planned the night before and loaded into the GPS but never the less, motoring out of Foster Inlet, in what were by now well over 30 knot winds with gusts to over 40 knots, took quite a while with the SOG only 3.1 knots at 3,000 rpm on the Yanmar.. The seas were short and sharp and if concentration lapsed for just a few seconds the nose of the boat would get blown well off course straight away and take quite a while to come back around.

The original choice of a three bladed propeller for Tegwen was certainly vindicated today. By half way across to Tomahawk Point the wind had eased a little to 25 knots and we were a more comfortable distance off the shore.

We anchored in behind Tomahawk Island before 9:00am and were very sheltered from the westerly wind. We moved along the beach a bit more later in the day the after had wind shifted to through SE to E and spent the night there. It was not a restful night - a pan pan call disturbed us all around 2:00 in the morning followed by a mayday call at 02:25. The vessel in distress managed to stabilise their situation and proceed but not before ongoing updates every 15 minutes until 04:00 had well and truly woken us all up. Tegwen was also quite rolly in the overnight conditions.

Tegwen to Tasmania - Skeleton Bay to Foster Inlet

Dictated by the wind and tide requirements of Banks Strait, we departed Skeleton Bay at 5:25 am after a bit of a tussle with the anchor which had well and truly dug under some kelp.  The sailing up around Eddystone Point and into Banks Strait was uneventful although the wind strengthened as we proceeded.  The original thought had been to anchor off Swan Island but on arrival it was clearly untenable in the prevailing 20 knot conditions, so we sailed on to Foster Inlet with the by then 25 knot easterly and 3 knot current boosting our SOG to 9 knots along the way!

Safe at anchor by just after 1:00 pm, Foster Inlet provided great shelter and we had a quiet afternoon and early evening there, sharing the anchorage with a trawler.  The rocks forming the northern end of the Inlet were well rounded and at times looked like a large colony of elephant seals slumped over each other.

Tegwen to Tasmania - Wineglass Bay to Skeleton Bay

Wineglass Bay had a number of trawlers and two yachts overnight.  It was a bit rolly but we still managed an early start for a potentially long day as we made the haul from Wineglass Bay up to Skeleton Bay just north of St Helens.  The predicted strong southerlies never lived up to the forecast in strength but the wind picked up and we did have a nice run up the coast with a light swell and sea. 

As we were going so well we diverted to Bicheno to top up the fuel and the larder.  Of course Bicheno has a nice bakery as well.  One of the local fishermen was on the wharf when we turned up and when we enquired about the proximity of the nearest diesel fuel, he lent us his late model ute to go and do all our shopping!  The Tasmanians are definitely a friendly and hospitable lot that put Aussie mainlanders top shame.

Topped up with a "real" coffee and nice cakes the rest of the day was another good days sailing.

Tegwen to Tasmania - Freycinet Peninsular to Wineglass Bay

The morning was spent fiddling with the autopilot and enjoying the beauty and solitude around us. While still not working, the autopilot resolution has progressed and will be sorted as soon as the correct lubricant can be purchased. Another reason for taking the morning off was to await a more favourable wind which came in after lunch. We had a pleasant sail up to Wineglass Bay although there was the occasional rain shower. While there weren't many people on the beach there, no doubt due to the weather, we were able to enjoy the changing moods of the setting sun on the various hills around from our vantage point in the bay itself.

Tegwen to Tasmania - Triabunna to Freycinet Peninsular

The morning started with a trolley run to get diesel and gas. Fortuitously on the way back the bakery was open too! Tegwen slipped her lines at 09:30 and we made her way down the "interesting" channel, only this time with the benefit of a recent high tide adding more water under the keel. We motored in light winds down around the points separating us from the wide expanse of water that leads up to the Freycinet Peninsula. Approaching Cape Bouganville, the last of the points, we decided to delay hoisting sail briefly while we enjoyed a cuppa along with delicious vanilla slices fresh from the bakery that morning.

Sails up, the wind by now blowing 10-12 knots and away we went! A beautiful sailing day with blues skies, thin cloud and Tegwen going to windward for probably the first time since she left Batemans Bay on November. We passed a dozing seal with its flipper held aloft, not unlike the dolphin seen in Bass Strait. After lunch, as predicted, the wind gradually increased as we made our way towards the sheltered beach at the south western end of Freycinet Peninsula just inside of the Schouten Passage. By the time we were pulling down the sails to moor, the wind was up to 24 knots.

Having anchored well in a relatively sheltered position we enjoyed the close of the day with snacks and then a nice dinner of lamb chops, cooked vegies and salad.

All in all, a most enjoyable day's sailing.

Tegwen to Tasmainia - Port Arthur to Triabunna

With a long day's sailing in front of us we left Carnarvon Bay, Port Arthur at 06:15 with next to no breeze and low mist swirling around the shores. Light rain ensued off and on as we made our way out of the Port Arthur area and passed between Tasman Island and Cape Pillar. Seals abounded on the rocks of Tasman Island and as we moved on out and up the coast the mist and light rain cleared quickly. Looking back we saw the Tasman Island Light bathed in sunlight for a little while.

The winds lifted to around 10 knots for most of the day but it remained overcast. Deceptively so as we all were a little sunburnt by days end. Along the way we saw dolphins, some small albotross and little penguins.

The approach to Triabunna was trickier than ever as we came in not long after low tide and there were Maria Island ferries coming the other way. We managed to come to a stop once at the side of the channel, which is missing many markers, but extricated ourselves OK. The depth warning alarms were going off continuously! Rafted up safely at the town wharf, we sought out likely places for a gas refill on the morrow when they would again be open. We had arrived after 6:00pm.

The Triabunna hotel lived up to its reputation and we all enjoyed a good meal there followed by a very sound sleep.

Tegwen to Tasmania - Hobart to Port Arthur

A slow start to the day as while we waited for a fuel top up we ran into Jeremy Firth, an old Canberra Yacht Club member that Graham knew well. Jeremy also happened to be the editor of the RYC of Tas Anchorage Guide so much good advice about the proposed journey was to be had.

We sailed around 10:15am for Port Arthur. The day was cloudy. The wind was all over the place as we motored down the Derwent, depending on what landform we were passing, and also had quite a chill. Past the Iron Pot, as we entered and crossed Storm Bay, it steadied then increased throughout the afternoon. Approaching Tasman Island and the entrance to Port Arthur we saw dolphins and two seals swimming with them.

After arriving late in the afternoon we did a slow cruise past the wharf and main buildings for Steve to have his first sighting of Port Arthur, which was appropriately gloomy for a penal colony. Not long after anchoring around the corner in Carnarvon Bay it started to drizzle and become somewhat misty.

Our first day sailing together as a crew and we all had gotten on well and enjoyed each other's company.

Tegwen to Tasmania - The Second Leg Preparations

Graham Giles and Stephen motored Tegwen up from Kettering to the Royal Yacht Club of Tasmania at Sandy Bay where we met up over lunch with Steve Knight, the other crew member for this leg. In the afternoon we were offered a lift into Peter Johnson's chandlery near Constitution Dock which we took advantage of to get a few bits and pieces. Taking the bus back to Sandy Bay shops we raided Woolworths for provisions then walked back to the yacht. With all the stores put away Tegwen had an engine oil change and impeller check and we were then all but ready for departure on the next leg Tegwen's Tasmanian adventure.