Friday, February 18, 2011
Tegwen to Tasmania - Circumnavigation Completed
Although the third leg of the Tegwen to Tasmania cruise officially started when the crew for the second leg joined in Hobart, Tegwen actually started from Kettering. So her arrival back in Kettering completed Tegwen's circumnavigation of Tasmania covering 906 nautical miles over 32 days.
Tegwen to Tasmania - Third Leg Achieved
Tegwen logged 504 nautical miles from Stanley to Kettering over 18 days now sits in Kettering enjoying the Oyster Cove Marina once again until the end of the month when the crew arrives for the fourth and final leg back across Bass Strait to Batemans Bay.
Tegwen to Tasmania - Recherche Bay to Kettering
The plan was to sail to Southport and anchor in Deep Hole with a view to seeing the Ida Bay Railway in operation, then on to Dover and the reputed Swiss Bakery, before finishing Tegwen's Tasmanian circumnavigation in Kettering.
However, the forecast was somewhat daunting with even worse to come the day after next. The next two proposed anchorages were either more exposed or not as good a holding as we had at Coalbins, so the decision was taken to have a reading day. Many of the other yachts around us decided the same and stayed in the area.
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Friday saw us off by 8:00am heading straight to Kettering. Coalbins was very sheltered with only a light breeze but once out in the Bay proper the wind increased and as often has happened on this circumnavigation it was on the nose so motoring was the order of the day. A couple of other yachts heading north were also seen to be motoring. The wind increased as we passed Southport, Dover and the Huon River entrances but always on the nose. Once in the d'Entrecasteaux Channel itself the wind picked up further but still not as strong as predicted.
At last, with just a couple of miles to go, the course with respect to the wind enabled us to hoist sail and enjoy it.
And then Tegwen was at Kettering - the starting point for her Tasmanian circumnavigation.
Mark Smith, who crewed from Stanley to Kettering (and previously from Batemans Bay to Hobart), took advantage of our Friday arrival to return home early and enjoy the weekend with his much missed family.
However, the forecast was somewhat daunting with even worse to come the day after next. The next two proposed anchorages were either more exposed or not as good a holding as we had at Coalbins, so the decision was taken to have a reading day. Many of the other yachts around us decided the same and stayed in the area.
---
Friday saw us off by 8:00am heading straight to Kettering. Coalbins was very sheltered with only a light breeze but once out in the Bay proper the wind increased and as often has happened on this circumnavigation it was on the nose so motoring was the order of the day. A couple of other yachts heading north were also seen to be motoring. The wind increased as we passed Southport, Dover and the Huon River entrances but always on the nose. Once in the d'Entrecasteaux Channel itself the wind picked up further but still not as strong as predicted.
At last, with just a couple of miles to go, the course with respect to the wind enabled us to hoist sail and enjoy it.
And then Tegwen was at Kettering - the starting point for her Tasmanian circumnavigation.
Mark Smith, who crewed from Stanley to Kettering (and previously from Batemans Bay to Hobart), took advantage of our Friday arrival to return home early and enjoy the weekend with his much missed family.
Wednesday, February 16, 2011
Tegwen to Tasmania - Port Davey to Recherche Bay
We were up so early that there wasn't enough light to see by! After about half an hour going down the coast towards South West Cape, we ran into sea fog that reduced visibility to 100 metres at times. An hour and a half later it slowly started to lift and the mountains and islands we had so much looked forward to seeing started to emerge from the mist. With a 72 nautical miles day in front of us and an unfamiliar anchorage awaiting us at Rechereche Bay, we motor sailed all the way to ensure we got in while there was still some light. The wind varied in strength starting at 5 knots but building to over 20 at one stage, although the direction was often unfavourable for us. There was a 2m SW swell assisting us for most of the day, enabling an average for the day of 5.2 knots. Having been prepared for the potential terrors of the South Coast, the day's journey was remarkably easy and uneventfull, other than the sea fog. The rest of the day was sunny with some cloud about and great visibility of the coast.
Coming into the Coalbins anchorage in Recherche Bay, we were surprised to see a large number of other yachts, trawlers and motor launches already there. We were sharing the anchorage with twelve other boats, all of whom have obviously been to the just finished Wooden Boat Festival in Hobart. Tegwen was the only non wooden boat there! This is the first time in the whole trip we have been in so much company at an anchorage.
We enjoyed a hot meal on deck around sunset and as the ensuing twilight darkened, there was a fairyland of anchor lights bobbing around us.
Coming into the Coalbins anchorage in Recherche Bay, we were surprised to see a large number of other yachts, trawlers and motor launches already there. We were sharing the anchorage with twelve other boats, all of whom have obviously been to the just finished Wooden Boat Festival in Hobart. Tegwen was the only non wooden boat there! This is the first time in the whole trip we have been in so much company at an anchorage.
We enjoyed a hot meal on deck around sunset and as the ensuing twilight darkened, there was a fairyland of anchor lights bobbing around us.
Tuesday, February 15, 2011
Tegwen to Tasmania - Bathurst Harbour Happenings
Saturday saw a gentle start admiring the scenery around us and wondering if the rain and cloud would lift. We experienced all sorts of weather as the morning passed by. Encouraged by the sun, we got out the dinghy only to have it rain again. Finally around midday we set off to explore and possibly climb Balmoral Hill for the view. However, once we put our nose out past Ila Bay in the dinghy, we were confronted with a short sharp chop - it was quite windy and against the tide. With the wind forecast to rise mightily in the afternoon we thought better of it.
We had noticed a sole bushwalker struggling to launch a dinghy from Joan Point and deciding we could help, sidled the dinghy across the chop to the spot to find a young Czechoslovakian woman who had already completed the South Coast Track and was heading for Scott's Peak. Mark hopped out and the two of them were able to slide the dinghy down the slipway pole across the rocks to the water successfully. We made our way across to Farell Point and Mark helped stow the dinghy on its rack - this time the slipway had two poles so at least the dinghy didn't have to be balanced as well as pushed. Being sheltered, we decided to explore the top end of Ila Bay, all the while trying to work out how to get ashore and climb towards Mt Rugby (the pilot book says its tougher than it appears and not to bother). We halted near the end of the bay too look at three black swans who after a while decided to leave us. We ate some lunch as we drifted back to Tegwen. A quiet afternoon ensued with rain coming through often.
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On Sunday, with the weather looking a little better rain wise, although still some about, we motored around to Claytons Corner. Finding the middle of the deeper part shown on the charts took a while but we were finally satisfied with our anchorage. The dinghy was fetched from the locker and was soon awaiting our pleasure at Tegwen's stern.
After a hot lunch we went ashore at the jetty, checked out the former retired fishermans house, now maintained by National Parks and Wildlife, then went up the well formed and occasionally duck boarded Mt Beattie track. For the most part this was winding through the extensive rain forest that has developed in the sheltered folds of the hills until suddenly we broke out on the ridge top with extensive views from Mt Rugby to Bathurst Harbour to Melaleuca backed by New Harbour Range and Claytons Corner and Tegwen below us. After considerable time admiring the views, with the portent of another show approaching we descended the track. On the way back we saw several brightly coloured fungi growing that had alluded us on the way up. The rain though threatened held off.
The onset of dusk was delightful with the sun washing over the hills and islands around us in a moving tapestry of light. That night we saw some stars amongst the clouds, the first for several nights - a good portent for the morrow.
---
We arose Monday to a clear blue sky with just a streak of mist on the side of one or two of the hills. Mid morning we headed off in the dinghy to explore Melaleuca Inlet and Creek. The views of Mt Rugby back down the Inlet were quite stunning with the morning light playing upon the structure of the mountain. The channel in a couple of the broader reaches is very narrow and marked out with sticks which must be followed very closely to avoid weed, mud or rocks.
Melaleuca itself has had a bit of a going over since the early 1980's when the skipper was last here. The airstrip now has marker cones and a waiting shed. The bushwalkers huts are deluxe compared to what used to be here and the toilets to die for. There is also a bird watching hide available to all but used primarily to monitor the few surviving orange bellied parrots that spend their summers breeding in this area before migrating to King Island, the Victorian Coast and the Koorong for winter. We didn't see any parrots but did observe some Beautiful Firetails which had striking markings around the eyes and an almost scarlet tail.
Back down Melaleuca Inlet to Tegwen, the tide almost at its lowest point by now as we found out at one point when looking at the surroundings rather than where we were going. After a nice lunch the afternoon was spent reading in the solitude of the anchorage. Dusk and the ensuing long twilight were most enjoyable, the breeze having dropped away to almost nothing and the only sounds the lapping of the water on Tegwen and the bird calls from the surrounding shores. We watched as some sea mist came over New Harbour Range to the south and settled onto drifts on its slopes before settling down to become an evening mist over the plain before it. The three quarter full moon was exceptionally bright in the clear air and the multitudinous stars struggled to make themselves visible against it.
---
Hopeful of an early start to Tuesday with a full days program in front of us, we were stymied by last nights evening mist still hanging around giving insufficient visibility to strike out across Bathurst Harbour. There was only a suggestion of a SW breeze and mill pond conditions.
Finally the sun burnt off the mist and we were on our way to Old River. We snuck in as close as we dared but Old River shallowed out very quickly, the channel was not obvious and the proliferation of snags across the river mouth convinced us to anchor a little further out and take the dinghy from there. We went up stream almost to the first set of rapids but started hitting submerged, thought to be wooden, objects. The return trip being with the current was significantly quicker. The downside was that the wind had sprung up and we were getting some spray into the dinghy. Near the river mouth we managed to lose the channel and it took quite a bit of fluffing around to gain deep water again. Once across the river entrance, there was a short chop to be faced and we inevitably got a bit wet as we made our way back to Tegwen.
After lunch we set off back across Bathurst Harbour, into the Channel and out to Port Davey to head for Spain Bay - our stepping off point for the trip across the bottom of Tasmania. Going down Bathurst Channel, the vista all around us was so different to when we first arrived from Strahan, with low clouds and rain showers all about. The sky was a deep blue, the sun resplendant and backgrounding the more distant mountains were the odd fluffy white clouds.
We arrived at Spain Bay late in the afternoon having passed some dramatic rock formations in the islands outside the Bathurst Channel entrance and south from there. Spain Bay is a pretty little bay that seems to be well protected, with kust a little swell coming in. In preparation for the big push tomorrow, the dinghy was packed away, some more two stroke fuel made up and Tegwen's fuel tank filled back up from jerry cans. Finally it was time for dinner which we enjoyed on deck taking in the surroundings in the changing light of sunset.
Having had Bathurst Channel and Harbour to ourselves with the one exception of a large motor launch, we encountered five yachts all arriving today. It would appear they have all scampered off from Hobart at the finish of the Wooden Boat Festival held over last weekend. Time to leave.
We had noticed a sole bushwalker struggling to launch a dinghy from Joan Point and deciding we could help, sidled the dinghy across the chop to the spot to find a young Czechoslovakian woman who had already completed the South Coast Track and was heading for Scott's Peak. Mark hopped out and the two of them were able to slide the dinghy down the slipway pole across the rocks to the water successfully. We made our way across to Farell Point and Mark helped stow the dinghy on its rack - this time the slipway had two poles so at least the dinghy didn't have to be balanced as well as pushed. Being sheltered, we decided to explore the top end of Ila Bay, all the while trying to work out how to get ashore and climb towards Mt Rugby (the pilot book says its tougher than it appears and not to bother). We halted near the end of the bay too look at three black swans who after a while decided to leave us. We ate some lunch as we drifted back to Tegwen. A quiet afternoon ensued with rain coming through often.
---
On Sunday, with the weather looking a little better rain wise, although still some about, we motored around to Claytons Corner. Finding the middle of the deeper part shown on the charts took a while but we were finally satisfied with our anchorage. The dinghy was fetched from the locker and was soon awaiting our pleasure at Tegwen's stern.
After a hot lunch we went ashore at the jetty, checked out the former retired fishermans house, now maintained by National Parks and Wildlife, then went up the well formed and occasionally duck boarded Mt Beattie track. For the most part this was winding through the extensive rain forest that has developed in the sheltered folds of the hills until suddenly we broke out on the ridge top with extensive views from Mt Rugby to Bathurst Harbour to Melaleuca backed by New Harbour Range and Claytons Corner and Tegwen below us. After considerable time admiring the views, with the portent of another show approaching we descended the track. On the way back we saw several brightly coloured fungi growing that had alluded us on the way up. The rain though threatened held off.
The onset of dusk was delightful with the sun washing over the hills and islands around us in a moving tapestry of light. That night we saw some stars amongst the clouds, the first for several nights - a good portent for the morrow.
---
We arose Monday to a clear blue sky with just a streak of mist on the side of one or two of the hills. Mid morning we headed off in the dinghy to explore Melaleuca Inlet and Creek. The views of Mt Rugby back down the Inlet were quite stunning with the morning light playing upon the structure of the mountain. The channel in a couple of the broader reaches is very narrow and marked out with sticks which must be followed very closely to avoid weed, mud or rocks.
Melaleuca itself has had a bit of a going over since the early 1980's when the skipper was last here. The airstrip now has marker cones and a waiting shed. The bushwalkers huts are deluxe compared to what used to be here and the toilets to die for. There is also a bird watching hide available to all but used primarily to monitor the few surviving orange bellied parrots that spend their summers breeding in this area before migrating to King Island, the Victorian Coast and the Koorong for winter. We didn't see any parrots but did observe some Beautiful Firetails which had striking markings around the eyes and an almost scarlet tail.
Back down Melaleuca Inlet to Tegwen, the tide almost at its lowest point by now as we found out at one point when looking at the surroundings rather than where we were going. After a nice lunch the afternoon was spent reading in the solitude of the anchorage. Dusk and the ensuing long twilight were most enjoyable, the breeze having dropped away to almost nothing and the only sounds the lapping of the water on Tegwen and the bird calls from the surrounding shores. We watched as some sea mist came over New Harbour Range to the south and settled onto drifts on its slopes before settling down to become an evening mist over the plain before it. The three quarter full moon was exceptionally bright in the clear air and the multitudinous stars struggled to make themselves visible against it.
---
Hopeful of an early start to Tuesday with a full days program in front of us, we were stymied by last nights evening mist still hanging around giving insufficient visibility to strike out across Bathurst Harbour. There was only a suggestion of a SW breeze and mill pond conditions.
Finally the sun burnt off the mist and we were on our way to Old River. We snuck in as close as we dared but Old River shallowed out very quickly, the channel was not obvious and the proliferation of snags across the river mouth convinced us to anchor a little further out and take the dinghy from there. We went up stream almost to the first set of rapids but started hitting submerged, thought to be wooden, objects. The return trip being with the current was significantly quicker. The downside was that the wind had sprung up and we were getting some spray into the dinghy. Near the river mouth we managed to lose the channel and it took quite a bit of fluffing around to gain deep water again. Once across the river entrance, there was a short chop to be faced and we inevitably got a bit wet as we made our way back to Tegwen.
After lunch we set off back across Bathurst Harbour, into the Channel and out to Port Davey to head for Spain Bay - our stepping off point for the trip across the bottom of Tasmania. Going down Bathurst Channel, the vista all around us was so different to when we first arrived from Strahan, with low clouds and rain showers all about. The sky was a deep blue, the sun resplendant and backgrounding the more distant mountains were the odd fluffy white clouds.
We arrived at Spain Bay late in the afternoon having passed some dramatic rock formations in the islands outside the Bathurst Channel entrance and south from there. Spain Bay is a pretty little bay that seems to be well protected, with kust a little swell coming in. In preparation for the big push tomorrow, the dinghy was packed away, some more two stroke fuel made up and Tegwen's fuel tank filled back up from jerry cans. Finally it was time for dinner which we enjoyed on deck taking in the surroundings in the changing light of sunset.
Having had Bathurst Channel and Harbour to ourselves with the one exception of a large motor launch, we encountered five yachts all arriving today. It would appear they have all scampered off from Hobart at the finish of the Wooden Boat Festival held over last weekend. Time to leave.
Thursday, February 10, 2011
Tegwen to Tasmania - Strahan to Bathurst Harbour
Spent the morning readying ourselves and Tegwen for departure for Port Davey and Bathurst Harbour and left Strahan harbour around 2:00 pm. It was heavily overcast, drizzling and the winds were very light from the SW.
By 4:30 pm Tegwen had cleared Macquarie Breakwater and the wind was up to 13.5 knots from the N. We waited until abreast Cape Sorell before hoisting sail and started to motor sail as the wind had dropped to 9 knots. By 8:15 pm the wind had died away to next to nothing and the sea was almost glassy with a low underlying swell. Then around 10:50 pm the motor was off and Tegwen was sailing at 5.5 knots. Later through the night there was more rain with the wind going more W and easing. By 1:50 am it was back to motoring. Very frustrating wind wise but the Tasmanian West Coast is known for its extremes and this was preferable to its wild and woolly reputation.
The rain cleared when just off Port Davey and Tegwen approached it with low clouds and mist hanging around the mountains but clearing from behind. We anchored in Casilda Cove at 10:45 and caught up with some of the previous night's sleep. Mid afternoon we up anchored and moved further down the channel to Ila Bay where we felt the anchoring was more manageable in the forecast strong winds to come.
By 4:30 pm Tegwen had cleared Macquarie Breakwater and the wind was up to 13.5 knots from the N. We waited until abreast Cape Sorell before hoisting sail and started to motor sail as the wind had dropped to 9 knots. By 8:15 pm the wind had died away to next to nothing and the sea was almost glassy with a low underlying swell. Then around 10:50 pm the motor was off and Tegwen was sailing at 5.5 knots. Later through the night there was more rain with the wind going more W and easing. By 1:50 am it was back to motoring. Very frustrating wind wise but the Tasmanian West Coast is known for its extremes and this was preferable to its wild and woolly reputation.
The rain cleared when just off Port Davey and Tegwen approached it with low clouds and mist hanging around the mountains but clearing from behind. We anchored in Casilda Cove at 10:45 and caught up with some of the previous night's sleep. Mid afternoon we up anchored and moved further down the channel to Ila Bay where we felt the anchoring was more manageable in the forecast strong winds to come.
Wednesday, February 9, 2011
Tegwen to Tasmania - Macquarie Harbour et al
Saturday 5th February was spent mooching about the town checking out some of the lovely timberand timber items for sale and talking with the locals. One in particular was the skipper of Storm Breaker, a charter yacht based in Strahan, who shared his local knowledge with us on our anticipated meanderings around Macquarie Harbour and the Gordon River.
An easy start to Sunday, after taking on diesel we left Strahan Harbour around 11:00 am. There were some clouds amongst the blue sky and winds were from the SW at 12 knots. Once out into the broader Macquarie Harbour, we put up sail and proceeded down to Kelly Basin. The wind was surprisingly variable in both strength and direction requiring tacking several times for the first time on the trip. The variability confused the autopilot somewhat and we ended up at the helm most of the way.
By 4:15 pm we had cruised around Kelly Basin and anchored in the magnificently protected spot behind St Leger Point. Although experiencing showers at times, it was a good trip down the harbour and Kelly Basin looked pretty as the sun came out at times. We enjoyed a serenely quiet night with no insects to disturb our slumbers despite dire warnings from locals.
With it being quite overcast and showers coming through, we got off to another slow start on Monday before exploring Kelly Basin. Finally the weather cleared for a while and off we went in the dinghy. First to East Pillinger where some duckboarding and interpretive signs have been set up by National Parks and Wildlife. There were some brick kilns and boilers to be seen as well as the remains of a railway carriage in a very sorry state. We walked along the Bird River track a little way as well. Then it was back into the dinghy and across to the small wharf near "Raindeer Lodge", an old shack adjacent to West Pillinger. We looked around there a little but decided not to trek over to the town site itself, given the amount of regrowth that has reclaimed the whole area.
After a hot lunch, we set off at 12:45 for the Gordon River. The wind as is becoming normal was dead ahead and gusting over 20 knots at times. We saw one of the tourist boats enter the River and Tegwen entered around 30 minutes later. The river was very subdued both current and wind wise and this enabled the evening's casserole to be started early and to cook slowly as we progressed upstream. We anchored near Heritage Landing and dinghied over to "do the walk" through the rainforest there. After this interlude, we glided further up the Gordon until we stopped for the night in the stretch of river a lttle past Horseshoe Bend.
Tuesday morning started with cloud cover and some morning mist rising along the banks around us like wisps of smoke from camp fires. The river was very still with everything reflected perfectly in it. We headed further up river around 9:00 am. Subsequently, having slipped around Butlers Island that has featured so often in calendars, we were hugging the shore through a section of the river which is shallow in the middle, just before Warners Landing, when a low flying float plane appeared out of nowhere as he climbed slowly and wound his way down the river valley. They say you get little advance warning of the appearance of these float planes and it was certainly the case for us. No panic though as we were well over to the side of the river. Warners Landing was upon us and we cruised slowly past the sight of so much commotion during the Franklin Dam protests to tie up at the wharf for Sir John Falls. The falls were very picturesque and even more so when the sun came out highlighting the surrounding rain forest.
After a quiet lunch, we headed off down river again, still with little breeze but now with the current of the Gordon assisting us. Near the mouth of the Gordon, as the wind gained strength and chilled us somewhat, we passed Storm Breaker the large charter yacht based in Strahan. Trevor the skipper, who had lent us an out of print archaeological study on the King River and Kelly Basin to enhance our visit, was on his way up river to pick up a party of rafters coming down. Trevor also offered us use of his mooring at Sarah Island which we gratefully accepted.
Out of the Gordon and straight for Sarah Island. We were tied up on Storm Breaker's mooring there by 5:15 pm. Into the dinghy and off to Sarah Island which we had all to ourselves. Its been made very easy to visit and get around the island but with all the regrowth and pleasant paths, it is hard to imagine the barren, harsh and cruel place it must have been when in use as a penal colony. Tegwen looked a picture from Sarah Island, backed as she was by Mt Sorell, Farm Cove and the entrance to Kelly Basin with sun gleaming off her white hull.
The wind had dropped off overnight. We saw one of the large tourist vessels proceeding towards the Gordon entrance, then Storm Breaker returning to Strahan after the night up river and were preparing to leave ourselves when the morning took a turn for the worse. The skipper did the unthinkable and managed to block the toilet plumbing. Some two hours later having discovered lots about the toilet system pump, hoses and valves but neither able to remove the hose nor internally reach what seems the most likely spot for the blockage with the implements we had on board, we set off for Strahan formulating what must by now be plan H. The wind was 2 knots from the S so it was motoring time again. One of the things you appreciate heading back up Macquarie Harbour is the enormity of it. Although the surrounding land at the north western end of the harbour is relatively low, it completely disappears when you are down the south eastern end as a result of the curvature of the earth. What you see is water all the way to the horizon with a gradually vanishing shore either side.
Back into Strahan in the early afternoon, we topped up the fuel then tied up again against the trawler Elizabeth on the town wharf. Time to regroup, take on supplies and sort out the plumbing . . .
After a nice grilled snapper and salad at one of the Strahan cafés we wondered back to the boat to face the plumbing. In the end plan H worked and was deceptively simple. For all the angst we retrieved surprisingly little from the hose but it mattered not, it now all works. Took a while to clean up and wash down various places with chlorine but all is now fine, if somewhat clinical smelling. If there is a next time we will try plan H first.
Finished the day with route planning for the next leg to Port Davey. We anticipate a mid-day departure and an overnight sail. Thew weather looks to be very mild and we will probably have to motor sail most of the way.
An easy start to Sunday, after taking on diesel we left Strahan Harbour around 11:00 am. There were some clouds amongst the blue sky and winds were from the SW at 12 knots. Once out into the broader Macquarie Harbour, we put up sail and proceeded down to Kelly Basin. The wind was surprisingly variable in both strength and direction requiring tacking several times for the first time on the trip. The variability confused the autopilot somewhat and we ended up at the helm most of the way.
By 4:15 pm we had cruised around Kelly Basin and anchored in the magnificently protected spot behind St Leger Point. Although experiencing showers at times, it was a good trip down the harbour and Kelly Basin looked pretty as the sun came out at times. We enjoyed a serenely quiet night with no insects to disturb our slumbers despite dire warnings from locals.
With it being quite overcast and showers coming through, we got off to another slow start on Monday before exploring Kelly Basin. Finally the weather cleared for a while and off we went in the dinghy. First to East Pillinger where some duckboarding and interpretive signs have been set up by National Parks and Wildlife. There were some brick kilns and boilers to be seen as well as the remains of a railway carriage in a very sorry state. We walked along the Bird River track a little way as well. Then it was back into the dinghy and across to the small wharf near "Raindeer Lodge", an old shack adjacent to West Pillinger. We looked around there a little but decided not to trek over to the town site itself, given the amount of regrowth that has reclaimed the whole area.
After a hot lunch, we set off at 12:45 for the Gordon River. The wind as is becoming normal was dead ahead and gusting over 20 knots at times. We saw one of the tourist boats enter the River and Tegwen entered around 30 minutes later. The river was very subdued both current and wind wise and this enabled the evening's casserole to be started early and to cook slowly as we progressed upstream. We anchored near Heritage Landing and dinghied over to "do the walk" through the rainforest there. After this interlude, we glided further up the Gordon until we stopped for the night in the stretch of river a lttle past Horseshoe Bend.
Tuesday morning started with cloud cover and some morning mist rising along the banks around us like wisps of smoke from camp fires. The river was very still with everything reflected perfectly in it. We headed further up river around 9:00 am. Subsequently, having slipped around Butlers Island that has featured so often in calendars, we were hugging the shore through a section of the river which is shallow in the middle, just before Warners Landing, when a low flying float plane appeared out of nowhere as he climbed slowly and wound his way down the river valley. They say you get little advance warning of the appearance of these float planes and it was certainly the case for us. No panic though as we were well over to the side of the river. Warners Landing was upon us and we cruised slowly past the sight of so much commotion during the Franklin Dam protests to tie up at the wharf for Sir John Falls. The falls were very picturesque and even more so when the sun came out highlighting the surrounding rain forest.
After a quiet lunch, we headed off down river again, still with little breeze but now with the current of the Gordon assisting us. Near the mouth of the Gordon, as the wind gained strength and chilled us somewhat, we passed Storm Breaker the large charter yacht based in Strahan. Trevor the skipper, who had lent us an out of print archaeological study on the King River and Kelly Basin to enhance our visit, was on his way up river to pick up a party of rafters coming down. Trevor also offered us use of his mooring at Sarah Island which we gratefully accepted.
Out of the Gordon and straight for Sarah Island. We were tied up on Storm Breaker's mooring there by 5:15 pm. Into the dinghy and off to Sarah Island which we had all to ourselves. Its been made very easy to visit and get around the island but with all the regrowth and pleasant paths, it is hard to imagine the barren, harsh and cruel place it must have been when in use as a penal colony. Tegwen looked a picture from Sarah Island, backed as she was by Mt Sorell, Farm Cove and the entrance to Kelly Basin with sun gleaming off her white hull.
The wind had dropped off overnight. We saw one of the large tourist vessels proceeding towards the Gordon entrance, then Storm Breaker returning to Strahan after the night up river and were preparing to leave ourselves when the morning took a turn for the worse. The skipper did the unthinkable and managed to block the toilet plumbing. Some two hours later having discovered lots about the toilet system pump, hoses and valves but neither able to remove the hose nor internally reach what seems the most likely spot for the blockage with the implements we had on board, we set off for Strahan formulating what must by now be plan H. The wind was 2 knots from the S so it was motoring time again. One of the things you appreciate heading back up Macquarie Harbour is the enormity of it. Although the surrounding land at the north western end of the harbour is relatively low, it completely disappears when you are down the south eastern end as a result of the curvature of the earth. What you see is water all the way to the horizon with a gradually vanishing shore either side.
Back into Strahan in the early afternoon, we topped up the fuel then tied up again against the trawler Elizabeth on the town wharf. Time to regroup, take on supplies and sort out the plumbing . . .
After a nice grilled snapper and salad at one of the Strahan cafés we wondered back to the boat to face the plumbing. In the end plan H worked and was deceptively simple. For all the angst we retrieved surprisingly little from the hose but it mattered not, it now all works. Took a while to clean up and wash down various places with chlorine but all is now fine, if somewhat clinical smelling. If there is a next time we will try plan H first.
Finished the day with route planning for the next leg to Port Davey. We anticipate a mid-day departure and an overnight sail. Thew weather looks to be very mild and we will probably have to motor sail most of the way.
Friday, February 4, 2011
Tegwen to Tasmania - Three Hummock Is to Strahan
With a day and a night in the offing Tegwen left the sheltered bay at the top of Three Hummock Island at 6:30 am Thursday with a SW wind of 14 knots. Given the experiences off Stanley we motored until the waters between Three Hummock and Hunter Islands opened up so we could assess its full force before hoisting sail.
We then sailed almost to Albatross Island but on tacking found we couldn't hold a fair course so it was initially back to motor sailing. It quickly became clear we would have to just motor if we were to utilise our intended weather window for entry into Macquarie Harbour.
As Tegwen proceeded around the western shore of Hunter Island it seemed with every heading change the wind followed her around - very frustrating. Finally off West Point we were able to carry sail again although we needed the motor as well to achieve a reasonable speed. As evening ensued the winds dropped off to 6 to 8 knots and increasingly variable in direction. By early morning the wind had swung to the NE for a period but with little strenght. By 7:00am it was back to a S - SW wind of around 6 knots and we were 16 nautical miles from the Macquarie Harbour breakwater.
Approaching Macquarie Harbour the seas were all but smooth and the swell was gentle. For all its fearsome reputation we ran down the breakwater and through Hells Gates in very benign conditions. Having read the relevant guides and poured over the charts, we had each twist and turn required to get into the broader expanse of Macquarie Harbour well documented and followed them easily. A trawler followed us in from the breakwater all the way to Strahan itself and it was reassuring to see it pretty well taking the same course we had.
By 12 noon Friday we had tied up safely at the Strahan town wharf and quickly had the facilities sussed out and power connected. It was then a stroll around town and a visit to the bakery for curried scallop pies for lunch. The afternoon was occupied with more mundane persuits - taking a shower then a trip to the laundromat around the point in West Strahan. We finished the day with fish and chips in the park overlooking the wharf area.
We then sailed almost to Albatross Island but on tacking found we couldn't hold a fair course so it was initially back to motor sailing. It quickly became clear we would have to just motor if we were to utilise our intended weather window for entry into Macquarie Harbour.
As Tegwen proceeded around the western shore of Hunter Island it seemed with every heading change the wind followed her around - very frustrating. Finally off West Point we were able to carry sail again although we needed the motor as well to achieve a reasonable speed. As evening ensued the winds dropped off to 6 to 8 knots and increasingly variable in direction. By early morning the wind had swung to the NE for a period but with little strenght. By 7:00am it was back to a S - SW wind of around 6 knots and we were 16 nautical miles from the Macquarie Harbour breakwater.
Approaching Macquarie Harbour the seas were all but smooth and the swell was gentle. For all its fearsome reputation we ran down the breakwater and through Hells Gates in very benign conditions. Having read the relevant guides and poured over the charts, we had each twist and turn required to get into the broader expanse of Macquarie Harbour well documented and followed them easily. A trawler followed us in from the breakwater all the way to Strahan itself and it was reassuring to see it pretty well taking the same course we had.
By 12 noon Friday we had tied up safely at the Strahan town wharf and quickly had the facilities sussed out and power connected. It was then a stroll around town and a visit to the bakery for curried scallop pies for lunch. The afternoon was occupied with more mundane persuits - taking a shower then a trip to the laundromat around the point in West Strahan. We finished the day with fish and chips in the park overlooking the wharf area.
Wednesday, February 2, 2011
Tegwen to Tasmania - Stanley to Three Hummock Is
At the start of Tuesday 1st February, the skipper's birthday, we expected to farewell Graham and then spend the day tucked up in Stanley Harbour given the forecast. Then the strong wind warning was cancelled and the revised forecast looked manageable, so we decided around lunch time to leave for Three Hummock Island. This was to be a staging point for the long leg to Macquarie Harbour.
As we came out of the shelter of The Nut, the winds went up to 20 knots and the seas built somewhat. The required course was a reach across the seas which was difficult to hold. If Tegwen's stern was picked up by a wave, the sail area was then presented beam on to the wind causing more rounding up and extreme rolling. It was not long before the wind had come up to 35 knots sustained and gusting over 40! With two reefs in the main and the genoa partially furled it was still very hard to hold Tegwen on the intended course across the face of the seas.
Having expected a leisurely 10 to 20 knots we started out without all our wet weather gear on and by the time we donned it we were soaked through anyway. The thought of trying to put the third reef in the main in the conditions at the time with only two on board was a little daunting as was the thought of a further five hours sailing when soaked to the bone. We turned around and made our way back to the shelter of Stanley Harbour once again for a total round trip of 9.8 nautical miles.
The only consolation was a dinner at the Stanley pub with the captain and crew of the trawler we had been rafted up to for the last few days. The harbour had a bit of movement in it all night and Tegwen required some additional springs after the wind changed during the night.
Wednesday's dawn saw overcast conditions with drizzle and quite a breeze - a sense of deja vu overwhelmed us and it was difficult to get motivated to try and leave again. Mark and I spent quite a bit of time going over the next two legs and sussing out the likely weather. It was pretty obvious that we needed to try and enter Macquarie Harbour no later than Friday morning if we weren't to spend a further several days waiting for another weather window.
After walking to the end of the harbour and looking out at the sea conditions, we decided to have another go at sailing for Three Hummock Island. As it turned out this was the correct decision. Once clear of The Nut, the drizzle disappeared and at times the sun came out. The seas were only slight and there was a light breeze. We motored until well clear of Stanley to avoid the influence of The Nut and then were able to set sail and stop the motor. Not a great speed but at least we were sailing. Unfortunately the breeze gradually died over time and we forced once again to motor sail and ultimately just motor.
Despite the motoring we had a good trip and on looking back after a few miles had been covered, it became obvious how much the Harbour weather was dominated by the micro climate surrounding The Nut.
Having started late we used the twilight to maximum advantage and were finally at anchor well after sunset in a rolly but quiet bay along the northern coast of Three Hummock Island. Quiet that is, apart from the cries of what sounds like little penguins esconced amongst the cliffs around the bay.
As we came out of the shelter of The Nut, the winds went up to 20 knots and the seas built somewhat. The required course was a reach across the seas which was difficult to hold. If Tegwen's stern was picked up by a wave, the sail area was then presented beam on to the wind causing more rounding up and extreme rolling. It was not long before the wind had come up to 35 knots sustained and gusting over 40! With two reefs in the main and the genoa partially furled it was still very hard to hold Tegwen on the intended course across the face of the seas.
Having expected a leisurely 10 to 20 knots we started out without all our wet weather gear on and by the time we donned it we were soaked through anyway. The thought of trying to put the third reef in the main in the conditions at the time with only two on board was a little daunting as was the thought of a further five hours sailing when soaked to the bone. We turned around and made our way back to the shelter of Stanley Harbour once again for a total round trip of 9.8 nautical miles.
The only consolation was a dinner at the Stanley pub with the captain and crew of the trawler we had been rafted up to for the last few days. The harbour had a bit of movement in it all night and Tegwen required some additional springs after the wind changed during the night.
Wednesday's dawn saw overcast conditions with drizzle and quite a breeze - a sense of deja vu overwhelmed us and it was difficult to get motivated to try and leave again. Mark and I spent quite a bit of time going over the next two legs and sussing out the likely weather. It was pretty obvious that we needed to try and enter Macquarie Harbour no later than Friday morning if we weren't to spend a further several days waiting for another weather window.
After walking to the end of the harbour and looking out at the sea conditions, we decided to have another go at sailing for Three Hummock Island. As it turned out this was the correct decision. Once clear of The Nut, the drizzle disappeared and at times the sun came out. The seas were only slight and there was a light breeze. We motored until well clear of Stanley to avoid the influence of The Nut and then were able to set sail and stop the motor. Not a great speed but at least we were sailing. Unfortunately the breeze gradually died over time and we forced once again to motor sail and ultimately just motor.
Despite the motoring we had a good trip and on looking back after a few miles had been covered, it became obvious how much the Harbour weather was dominated by the micro climate surrounding The Nut.
Having started late we used the twilight to maximum advantage and were finally at anchor well after sunset in a rolly but quiet bay along the northern coast of Three Hummock Island. Quiet that is, apart from the cries of what sounds like little penguins esconced amongst the cliffs around the bay.
Tuesday, February 1, 2011
Tegwen to Tasmania - Stanley Strolling
With public transport into and out of Stanley to wider parts confined to weekdays, Graham and Stephen had some days to tidy Tegwen and explore Stanley. When we strolled over to the beach to the north of The Nut, it was a picture postcard of an Australian beach scene and King's Park behind it a credit to the council. The main business street has some interesting buildings in it and we spoke with lots of friendly people. However, it has become a pastiche of architectural styles with an almost purely tourist focus by the local merchants. Smithton is the nearest town with any real supplies or services.
Mark Smith who had sailed on the first stage down to Hobart arrived on the Monday late afternoon bus to rejoin Tegwen for the trip down the West Coast. All three of us enjoyed a light meal at the new café at the end of the wharf area, which had the advantage of not being far to go in the light rain we were experiencing. Early Tuesday, Graham was homeward bound on the early morning bus out of Stanley.
Mark Smith who had sailed on the first stage down to Hobart arrived on the Monday late afternoon bus to rejoin Tegwen for the trip down the West Coast. All three of us enjoyed a light meal at the new café at the end of the wharf area, which had the advantage of not being far to go in the light rain we were experiencing. Early Tuesday, Graham was homeward bound on the early morning bus out of Stanley.