Tegwen to Tasmania - Triabunna to Hobart

Thursday 16 December at 5:10am Tegwen departed Triabunna with a light breeze behind, pretty smooth seas and a slight long spaced swell. We motor sailed down the coast and around Tasman Island with the NE wind increasing gradually over time. There was some thoughts by the crew of going between Tasman Island and Cape Pillar and although the conditions would have allowed it, to get so close and not round Tasman Island wasn't on.

As forecast the wind swung around but always to our advantage. Leaving Tasman Island behind and out of the wind shadows of the coastal cliffs the wind went back to the NE, for some time rising to 20 knots as we headed across Storm Bay - sufficient to turn off the motor but still maintain the over 6 knots we were aiming for to arrive in Hobart while there was still light.

Storm Bay lived up to its name and we had the odd rain shower come across our path. On entering the Derwent it was back to motor sailing. We tied up at the Royal Yacht club of Tasmania around 8:30pm thus marking the end of Tegwen's sojourn from Batemans Bay to Hobart.

Going up the Derwent there had been sufficient yachts coming down to suggest there had been a twilight race that evening and this turned out to be the case. The Yacht Club's back bar was chockers and even better there were buffet meals available. The thought of cooking dinner went overboard instantly and we were quick in getting off the boat and into the bar, only to find they had just stopped serving the food! However, the staff offered us whatever we wanted from what remained in the food warmers at no cost so we dined well and at a great price. A nice finish to our day and our journey.

Tegwen to Tasmania - Lady Barron to Triabunna

The wind having died down early in the morning as predicted, Tegwen departed Lady Barron wharf on Monday 13th at 05:25 just around sunrise.

The tide behind us carried us forward as we wended our way down the channel. Having passed the tricky, shoaling bits that form the passage out between Flinders and Vansittart Islands, we turned south with a westerly of around 10 knots behind us with no swell and a gentle sea of around half a metre.

As the day progressed so did the wind speed. The winds crossing Banks Strait were 20-25 knots but seas and swell not too bad. Once in the lee of the Tasmanian coast line the winds eased and as we passed St Helens they were down to around 15 knots, sometimes a bit more, with the seas fairly calm. By 11:00pm Monday night we were motoring due to lack of wind and thought we would be able to continue direct to Hobart. The crew were by now hoping to get there at the earliest opportunity as we had had larger than anticipated delays and Christmas was sneaking up on us with its attendant family responsibilities.

However, the winds were forecast to pick up Tuesday afternoon and there was a strong wind warning around Tasman Island for Tuesday night, when we would be in that vicinity, so we elected to take shelter in Oyster Bay on Maria Island and wait out the front and following strong winds. We arrived at 4:10pm to await the predicted strong winds. The holding wasn't great with lots of weed but for the first time in the voyage we had an idyllic sunset with just a gentle breeze and smooth waters. As expected the wind came up later.

Tegwen started dragging her anchor over night and by 6:00am our planned sleep in was lost as we got up to re-anchor. Did it twice but on each occasion the anchor just wouldn't grip properly. Lots of weed was being ploughed up which then clogged the anchor and in 30+ knots of wind it didn't do too well. There were big winds being reported around the Tasman Peninsula so we decided to head across to Triabunna for shelter rather than spend all day re-anchoring or motoring to take the pressure off the anchor. We motored into and across the seas being whipped up by 30+ knots of wind as we back tracked a little to reach Triabunna. Tegwen handled it well and we were pretty dry but progress was slow over the 8 nautical miles involved.

Triabunna has a delightful town wharf with a small number of floating pontoons, disability access ramp, town water, power and the Information Centre staff immediately over the road from the wharf came out and gave us a local map and lots of advice. After using the Information Centre's excellent facilities to shower and shave, then watering and fueling Tegwen and connecting her to the power to top off the batteries, we headed off to the pub for a good dinner.

That Wednesday night we had another wonderful sunset, tucked up in a very quiet, almost still berth. Next morning everyone was wondering if we should have gone on rather than hole up for the night but we checked the current observations at Maria Island just 8 nautical miles away and it had been gusting to 33 knots. Tasman Island had been much stronger. We all felt vindicated that it had been a good call to stop.

Tegwen to Tasmania - Lady Barron Lounging

As on our previous legs we had managed to get in just as the weather was about to get a bit ordinary. We decided to stay on the wharf for at least that night so we could explore the local facilities, both of them - Lady Barron is a one shop, one tavern town. A drink or two followed by a meal at the tavern went down well, although the bar wouldn't stop rocking and that was before we had a drink. There were good views over the estuary and the boat at sunset - very nice.

Despite a successful night at the wharf, we took to a mooring Friday morning as it can get pretty rough at the wharf at times and there was a forecast of strong westerly winds. One of the many fishing boats turning up wanting a spot was also a factor, so we spent the day and Friday night on a mooring experiencing winds mainly from the north of over 33 knots in the process.

By Saturday morning we had observed the chop and wind patterns enough along with the motivation of increasing cabin fever to move back to the wharf and the freedom to gain land that ensued. Most of the visiting fishing boats had departed early, leaving a really good spot for us with the wind holding us off the wharf on our doubled up lines.

The opportunity was taken to raid the shop and stock up on a few necessities such as bread, chocolates and diesel. Brian and Rowena from the catamaran School's Out, who we originally met in Eden, had rented a car and kindly gave us a lift to the shop and returned the jerry cans of fuel while we continued to shop. A friendly local stopped to give us a lift back to the wharf with all our goodies. Later on some more fuel was fetched and again different locals picked us up and took us to our destination and back - Lady Barron and its people were fast growing on us. We were able to take a shower and do some washing at the tavern so everyone was feeling a lot happier by the time we went back for another meal there later in the day.

The wind really howled Saturday night when the second westerly front finally came through, with the initial gust recording over 52 knots. Tegwen took it all in her stride and we were still being held just off the wharf rather than pushed onto it, much to my relief.

Sunday we wandered up to the shop for a coffee. It seemed a lot of people were coming and going until we found out its the only shop on Flinders Island that opens on a Sunday - 600 residents and we saw quite a few of them. Filling in the day we visited the bottle, gem and "diamond" display and then walked down to Yellow Bay where School's Out had anchored. Brian and Rowena graciously showed us over their impressive 45ft catamaran. Its been their home for 18 months now and is very well set up.

Back to Tegwen for a special lunch, prepared by Mark to assuage Webby's constant longing for an egg and bacon roll, and an afternoon preparing for departure with the tide early on Monday 13th December. Russ and Mark went over our intended course again and again looking for issues until finally it was declared right and we then entered it into our GPS's. A beef hotpot was prepared for use in a day or two's time and we had lamb chops and veggies for dinner followed by mixed berries and custard - a grand end to our stay at Lady Barron.

Tegwen to Tasmania - Deal Island to Lady Barron

Wednesday 8th December we departed East Cove, Deal Island, at 8:00pm. As we moved down Murray Passage we passed numbers of fairy penguins undertaking their nightly return to their nests. These little creatures had been the source of the unusual sounds we had heard each night coming from the steep hills around us in East Cove.

As if this wasn't enough we then sighted a whale coming up the Passage we were just going down! He raised his tail and dove as we headed towards the entrance. A wonderful farewell to a most interesting island.

Once clear of Deal we initially had 12 knots from the north but experienced a variety of conditions overnight including periods of rain. With the new day upon us the wind was at times quite strong but manageable. As we entered the tortured route across the bottom of Flinders Island to Lady Barron, we (not unexpectedly) found ourselves against the tide which slowed Tegwen somewhat. Still, the sun was shining and it was new territory for all of us. The leads were very hard or impossible to find at times but Russ had very carefully planned the route with precise GPS points all along the way. These stood us in good stead and we finally reached Lady Barron by 2:00pm Thursday 9th December.

Tegwen to Tasmania - Deal Island Dalliance

Awakening Monday 6th December in the shelter of East Cove, Deal Island, it became obvious we would again be waiting more than a day for the next weather window. We listened to the forecasts while we experienced increasing winds in our sheltered position. At times, depending on the state of the tide, Tegwen rocked round quite a bit.

After successfully anchoring the first night (with an anchor watch until 3:00am just to be sure), we were happy with the anchor performance. However, there was a discussion during the morning as to whether we had dragged anchor a bit overnight and with the increasing wind we decided to run some lines to a nearby private mooring as well. Although we felt more secure as the load was distributed over the anchor and the mooring, it was nearly to bring us undone later. Sure that Tegwen was secure, we elected to go ashore in the afternoon to stretch our legs and look around. To do this, we need to use the dinghy for the first time ever.

Successfully inflated, the dinghy was launched over the side at the front of the boat and was being led to the stern when the line tied to the dinghy parted company. Its first deployment and about to be blown out into Bass Strait! As we stood there Mark Smith leaped in and grabbed the dinghy as it blew off. Fortunately Mark was able to swim the dinghy back to the boat as we all scrambled to throw a line at him - we could have lost him and the dinghy! After that the rest of the day seemed very tame.

Given the choppy conditions, the crew were ferried to shore one at a time. The dinghy & motor combination worked well, very stable. Once on Deal we climbed the steep track up to the small settlement of two houses and a number of other older buildings. We met the volunteer caretakers who were at the end of their 3 month stint and also awaiting the weather to get off the island. The Deal Island Museum was interesting but the views over Murray Passage to Erith Island were undoubtedly the most outstanding feature. The wind howled that night as we played Scrabble with a miniature travel set that Christine has placed aboard some time ago.

Wednesday morning and the conditions were no better. We thought we might have an evening barbecue ashore using the facilities at the jetty if it eased off but didn't bother to take the meat out of the freezer.

Around 11:00am as the cabin fever was increasing, Mark Webb was remarking on how the Beagle had been holed up at Deal Island for some time and likening our situation to both that of the Beagle and of Shackleton on the ice when first the bowsprit, then the two masts, of a barquentine appeared around the southern end of East Cove! Not all below believed us at first, thinking we were expanding the allegory Webby was weaving. It was the Young Endeavour, with a new group of youth on the ship, one day out of Devonport seeking some respite from the weather. What a first night they must have had out in those conditions (they saw up to 45 knots of wind)!

Russ who is ex Navy was particularly excited and exchanged greetings via VHF radio at the first opportunity. The tedium of bouncing around on Tegwen was suddenly gone as we had a beautiful ship to look at and all the carry on of their activities. They sent their proteges ashore in the afternoon to find terra firma again. Quite a few just sat in the shelter to be found around the jetty looking somewhat subdued. Not surprising given what they had been through.

Via VHF, we received an invite from the Captain of the Young Endeavour to dine with their staff that evening which we gladly accepted. They also happily topped up our jerry cans with fresh water which we were most thankful to receive. So later that day we found ourselves being picked up and ferried to the Young Endeavour, introduced to the Captain and crew, plied with espresso coffees from their on board machine and enjoying a fine meal with enthusiastic and great company. The entire crew from the Captain down were a credit to both the Navy and themselves, full of enthusiasm and with a clear vision of what they were doing and how it was benefiting those young persons doing the program. They have the privilege of taking their young charges through a finely honed program and seeing them over a short space of time develop new abilities, confidence and self understanding and it was obvious that the crew took great delight and pride in this. After the meal we were extended the opportunity to use their showers with freshly dried towels which was a welcome surprise quickly taken up. Then a tour of the vessel and as their night program commenced we were ferried back to Tegwen, with our stomachs full, our bodies clean and our minds inspired by the Young Endeavour crew and the work they were doing. We slept well that night.

Wednesday morning and the weather was a little kinder although still quite blowy. We decided to go ashore in the morning and do a couple of the walks on Deal, then tidy Tegwen in the afternoon and set sail for Flinders Island at 8:00pm if the weather held to the forecasts. This departure time would gave us appropriate daylight arrival times for the channel up to Lady Barron at the bottom of Flinders Island.

Once again the crew were ferried to shore one at a time and then we set off up the Barn Hill track to gain great views down two sides of Erith Island as well as of Murray Passage and then finally Little Squally Cove. Rained a bit at times but that was more than made up for when Bob and Penny, the Deal Island volunteer caretakers, invited us in for a cup of tea and some home made cake. While there, we spoke with Bryn from Coastguard Tamar for the first time using the caretaker's VHF and were able to log our intended departure that night. Bryn's melodious accent and friendly banter was to remain part of our daily radio listening for several days to come as he read out the weather and took position reports. Continuing on, we walked down to Garden Cove and saw the remnants of a vegetable garden established by one of the early lighthouse keeper's wife.

Returning to Tegwen for lunch, we then faced the interesting situation of untangling the anchor and mooring lines that had managed over a couple of days to wrap themselves around each other and Tegwen's keel. As well, our anchor had dragged until it became tangled in the chains of the mooring. No wonder it seemed secure after that initial drag, it wasn't going anywhere and for quite some time it looked like Tegwen and us weren't either.

After much huffing, puffing and postulation, we established a plan of sorts. Webby braved the cold water and managed to clear the keel wrap our anchor line had established. Some time later we managed to clear the line we had to the mooring by lifting the buoy and all the tangles immediately below it out of the water and pulling our line out twist by twist and knot by knot.

It then became clear that our anchor had not only snagged one of the mooring's chains but all but tied itself up in it. The possibility of having to cut the line and lose Tegwen's primary anchor and chain loomed large. It was too deep and too cold to free dive to the bottom. Eventually we managed to lift Tegwen's anchor to within 3 metres of the surface and Webby to give it one shot. Fortunately he managed to clear the wrap of mooring chain from Tegwen's anchor but it took a super hero effort and was touch and go to the end.

Much relieved and all very grateful to Webby for his efforts, we tidied up Tegwen for our departure later that night. The evening forecast confirmed a suitable window that would get us to Lady Barron at the southern end of Flinders Island in daylight hours.

Tegwen to Tasmania - Eden to Deal Island

We finally left Eden at 5:49am on Saturday 4th December. There appeared to be a weather window to get around Gabo Island without the mighty winds it is renowned for and then on to Deal Island. We decided to hug the Victorian coast a bit then head out through the Gippsland oil rigs, avoiding some of the stronger weather further out in the Strait.

Initially we had a light breeze from the North and ended up motoring then motor sailing for several hours. We shut down the motor for dinner but had to motor some more afterwards. At one stage we saw what looked like a strong wind gust gradually coming towards us that turned out to be an upwelling of fish. By mid evening we were sailing with the stars reflected in the water. The wind increased and the seas became confused as the night went on. The second watch came across a sleeping seal draped in seaweed with just one fin flapping in the air. It woke with quite a fright and sped off as Tegwen got close.

Over Sunday we had winds mostly in the 20 to 25 knot range with lumpy seas but made good time. When we we were still a way off Deal Island the sun set and the winds remained strong. As we came into Murray Passage between Deal and Erith Islands, the two headlands were just delineated in the gloom and a line of lighter cloud showing on the distant horizon. It was much wider the next day than it seemed at the time but as we gained the Passage the winds eased and the seas smoothed off although there were some cross currents. Tegwen was anchored in the shelter of East Cove by 10:30pm and very protected although there were still 20 knots of wind coming over the saddle on the Island.

Tegwen to Tasmania - Batemans Bay to Eden

Webby, Stephen, Mark and Russ

With Russ Shalders, Mark Smith and Mark Webb on board as crew, Tegwen left Batemans Bay at the top of the tide on Tuesday 30th Nov as planned.

 

We motored into a southerly for three and a half hours when the wind started swing to the East as predicted. Sails up - motor off! We had a good sail from there although at times later in the evening it got a it gusty and some rain. Took in two reefs in the early morning with gusts going over 25 knots. At one stage saw 8 knots on the log as we went down a wave - we think its reading about a knot slow too! Tegwen made good time to Eden and was tied up at the wharf by 8:30am Wednesday. She averaged 6 knots from Montague Island to Eden, even with the wind dying off at the end and motoring the last bit in.

We are now awaiting a suitable weather window to head to the Kent Group (Deal and Erith Islands). An early Friday morning departure is looking the most likely at this stage.